07-24-09
Press Start Button. Listen to Horrible Clicking Noise
Now this noise I talk about started up shortly after purchasing my Hondar back in February. It didnt happen all the time, and it would go away shortly after it started. After a time I figured it out it never made the noise on cold start, just hot starts, and only sometimes. Fast forward to a month ago. Now the clicking/card-in-spokes sound happened every warm start. What the hell is that? And why won’t someone fix it for me?
I did what any kid my age does when something like this pops up: google search for s2000 forums, join said s2000 forums, and see what all the wise 16 year old Asian kids from San Diego have to say about this “clicking on warm startup”. Of course I am car literate. I assumed one of the following: ticking dry valves, dragging starter gear or timing chain tensioner.
I ruled out dry valves simply because it does not occur on cold startups, even when I leave my car in the garage for a week without driving it. Starter was still a possibility, since the starters on these cars are known to go out fairly early. And timing tensioner is a known failing point, though the tell-tale symptoms for a failing tensioner is screeching and grinding noise coming form the timing chain area. I opted for the timing chain tensioner. I have 83k and change on the clock, I figured it was worth it for peace of mind.
To Make an Already Long Story Short
It was the tensioner! I bought the tensioner off of the tried and true Majestic Honda website. It comes with both O-rings and the plunger restrain for ease of installation (illustration item number 12).
The Good News
It’s easy to install, and I took pictures.
Let me break down what I did:
1) Disconnect VTEC solenoid signal plug and move aside (tension is located just underneath the VTEC solenoid).
2) Unclip airbox cover, remove air filter, remove bolts holding air box to the chassis (two bolts, one behind the air box and one inside the air 
box) so you can have increased access to the front timing chain maintenance hole (see pictures with pliers)
3) Remove both 10mm bolts holding the tensioner to the block. Do not confuse these with the bolts holding the backing plate of 
tensioner, that wont help you in the slightest. The tensioner should fit very snugly in there, you will be able to wiggle it around, but it may not pull out very easily. I used big pliers and pulled away from the block. You don’t have to be vicious, just 
firm. CAUTION: The plunger that applies pressure to the timing chain races CAN fall out of the main body (see last picture to see the pieces that may then occupy the inside of your timing chain housing), do not tip the old tensioner in or around its home… It may try to crawl back in and do some damage. A little bit of oil will come out of the tensioner, this is normal.
4) Insert the new tensioner with the “L” plunger retainer facing towards the hex-shaped access hole, which faces the front of the car. Bolt that sucker down. Almost done. Spec on those 10mm bolts is just shy of 9 lbs, no need to muscle this.
5) Use a 10mm hex bit to remove the front timing chain access plug (see picture). Use some needle nose pliers and pull that plunger retainer. Dear god, do not drop that little piece down into the timing chain cavity. Just, no. Replace the hex plug. No need to muscle it, snug is just fine.
6) Replace the air box bolts, filter and airbox cover, and re-plug in the vtec solenoid signal plug before starting it up (or else you’ll throw a code). You are done.
Final Thoughts
Not only did the clicking noise go away on warm startup, but the wavy feeling in the powerband, like there was a vibration coursing through the drivetrain, went away in the lower gears on hard acceleration from low speeds. Win-Win!
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